The short answer
Sometimes rehoming IS the right call. A documented bite history, resource-guarding around babies, predatory chase response to crawling children, or severe noise reactivity to crying are signals that a dog and a baby genuinely should not share a home. Sometimes rehoming ISN'T the right call. Nervousness, curiosity, jealousy, and general household stress are usually fixable with the right prep and a few sessions with a credentialed force-free trainer. This guide helps you tell the difference, with zero shame for either path. If rehoming is where you land, the form is at /rehome/submit.
You are not a bad person for considering this
Before anything else: the fact that you are reading this means you are taking the decision seriously. The owners who hurt their dogs are the ones who delay, panic, ignore the problem until a bite happens, then dump the dog in a back alley or surrender to a shelter with no notice. That is not you. You are doing the research. You are reading a long article. You are weighing it carefully. That alone separates you from the worst outcomes.
The honest truth is that some dog-baby combinations cannot be made safe. The honest truth is also that most can, with the right prep. This article is about telling those situations apart, because the cost of getting it wrong in either direction is high. Rehoming a dog who could have stayed is a loss for the family. Keeping a dog who is genuinely unsafe around a baby is a risk you cannot take back. We want you to land in the right place for your specific dog and your specific household.
When rehoming IS the right call
These are the situations where most certified behaviourists will tell you, gently and honestly, that rehoming is the safer outcome. Not always. A behaviourist may still recommend management protocols in some of these cases. But in general, if your dog matches one or more of these patterns, the rehoming conversation is reasonable to have early rather than late.
Safety signals that point toward rehoming
- Existing bite history at any level. Even a Level 1 bite (no broken skin) is a documented pattern of the dog choosing bite as a response to stress. With a baby in the home, the bite ladder shortens. A dog who bit once under specific conditions may bite again under similar conditions, and a baby cannot be expected to read or respect dog body language.
- Resource-guarding around children, strollers, or baby equipment. If your dog has growled, snapped, or stiffened when a child approached their food, bed, toys, or you while you were holding a baby, this is a pattern that escalates rather than fades. A behaviourist assessment is essential, and most will recommend a no-children household.
- Predatory chase response to crawling babies or small toddlers. Some dogs (especially high-drive working breeds, but it can happen in any dog) flip into predatory mode when something small and unpredictable moves at a low level. This is genetic, not a training failure, and it is very hard to extinguish. Telltale signs: intense staring, body lowering, stalking posture, lip licking, or a freeze-then-lunge pattern when a baby moves on the floor.
- Severe noise reactivity to crying. Most dogs habituate to baby crying within weeks. A small minority have a panic or reactive response that does not improve with structured desensitization. If after 6 to 8 weeks of professional behavioural work the dog is still in distress every time the baby cries, the dog is not living a good life in that home, and neither is the family.
- Bringing baby home in less than 2 weeks with no preparation done. This is a timing issue, not a dog issue. If you have not had time to desensitize the dog to baby equipment, sounds, smells, and routines, the first weeks home are unsafe for everyone. The answer is usually short-term foster or boarding while you stabilize, not necessarily permanent rehoming, but it is a legitimate trigger for considering it.
- A family member with extreme allergy where medical advice supports rehoming. Not "dog hair is annoying." A confirmed severe allergy in a parent or baby, documented by a physician, where management strategies (air purifiers, separate bedrooms, regular bathing) have failed or are medically inadequate. This is a real medical reason and a legitimate basis for rehoming.
If any of these match your situation, do not feel pressure to "try harder" before making the call. Most behaviourists will tell you that early rehoming, while the dog is still confident and unstressed, places far better than late rehoming after the dog has been managed in a tense home for months. Your dog will land in a better home if you start the process before the situation deteriorates.
When rehoming probably ISN'T the right call
These are the situations where, in our experience working with new-parent households, most owners feel relief two months later that they did not rehome. The dog adjusted. The household adjusted. Life with a baby and a dog is hard but possible. If your situation looks more like this list, the right next step is preparation and a trainer consultation, not a rehoming listing.
Manageable patterns (with prep)
- Dog is nervous or curious but not reactive. Sniffing the baby, watching the baby, staying close but calm, looking uncertain about the new arrival. These are normal adjustment behaviours, not danger signs. Most dogs settle within 2 to 6 weeks.
- Dog has never been around babies but shows no aggression toward children. Unfamiliarity is not the same as danger. With structured introductions, sound desensitization, and management, most dogs in this category do fine.
- Dog has separation anxiety. A baby in the house actually reduces alone time for the dog. With a proper introduction protocol, dogs with separation anxiety often do better, not worse, once a baby is around. Continue working with a vet or behaviourist on the anxiety itself, but it is not a baby-specific rehoming reason.
- Family is just stressed and considering "easier" options. The first 3 months with a newborn are brutal. Sleep deprivation makes every problem feel like a crisis. If you are at week 2 with a colicky baby and a barking dog, that is a sleep and support problem, not a rehoming problem. Wait until month 3 before making any permanent decision.
- Dog is showing attention-seeking or "jealousy" behaviours. Pushing between you and the baby, sulking when you nurse, demanding cuddles when you are holding the baby. These are management and routine problems, very fixable with structure and dedicated dog-time.
- Extended family is pressuring you. A grandparent or in-law saying "the dog has to go" is not a behavioural assessment. Get a credentialed force-free trainer's opinion before making a permanent decision based on someone else's anxiety.
Family Paws Parent Education: prep before deciding
If you are not sure which category you are in, the single highest-value step you can take is enrolling in the Family Paws Parent Education program. It is the gold-standard prep program for expectant parents with dogs, run by licensed educators trained specifically in dog-baby and dog-child dynamics. They offer online workshops, in-person classes in many regions, and one-on-one consultations.
What you get out of it: a structured plan for desensitizing your dog to baby sounds (including recordings of newborn crying at progressive volumes), introducing baby equipment (stroller, car seat, swing, monitor), setting up household safe zones with gates and exercise pens, and managing the high-stress first weeks home. Most participants report feeling far more prepared and far less anxious about the transition.
If you complete the Family Paws program and your dog is still showing concerning behaviours, that itself is useful diagnostic information. The educators are credentialed to recognize when a dog-baby pairing is genuinely incompatible and will tell you honestly, which is exactly the second opinion you need before making a permanent decision.
The force-free trainer or behaviourist consultation
Beyond Family Paws, a one-on-one consultation with a certified force-free trainer or veterinary behaviourist is the most valuable $200 to $400 you can spend in this window. They watch your dog in your home, assess body language and triggers, and give you a clear professional opinion on whether your specific dog is in the "manageable with prep" category or the "rehoming is the safer call" category.
Look for credentials. The strongest in Canada are CCPDT-KA (Certified Professional Dog Trainer, Knowledge Assessed), CCPDT-KSA (the skills-assessed version), KPA-CTP (Karen Pryor Academy), FFCP (Fear Free Certified Professional), or CDBC (Certified Dog Behaviour Consultant) for behaviour-specific cases. Veterinary behaviourists with DACVB certification are the strongest credential for clinical behaviour cases and are usually the right call if there is any bite history.
Avoid anyone who uses "balanced training," dominance theory, or aversive tools (prong collars, e-collars, shock). Force-free methods are not only kinder, they are the only methods with peer-reviewed evidence behind them for behaviour modification in fear and reactivity cases. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior publishes the position statements that most credentialed Canadian trainers follow.
The "3-3-3 baby reverse" timeline
Most adopters know the 3-3-3 rule for a dog adjusting to a new home (3 days decompressing, 3 weeks settling, 3 months fully comfortable). The reverse is also true: when a baby arrives, the dog goes through their own version of 3-3-3. Knowing this prevents panic decisions in week 1.
3-3-3 baby reverse
- First 3 days: reactive phase. The dog is processing a massive change. Expect odd behaviours: clinginess, hiding, pacing, refusing food, vocalization. This is not "the dog hates the baby." This is overwhelm. Keep structure, separate zones, low stress.
- First 3 weeks: adjusting phase. The dog starts settling into the new routine. Reactivity to crying typically fades. Sleep schedules align. The dog learns the baby's sounds and patterns. Most "concerning" behaviours from week 1 are gone by week 3.
- First 3 months: stabilizing phase. The dog is fully adjusted to life with a baby. By month 3, most owners cannot remember why they were so worried. Calm coexistence is the norm. This is the right point to evaluate whether the situation is truly working, not week 1 or week 4.
Many families panic at week 1 when month 3 would have been fine. Unless there is a clear safety signal (one of the rehoming criteria above), give the situation 8 to 12 weeks before making a permanent decision. The exception: any growl, snap, or bite at the baby is a "stop and assess" moment regardless of week. Call a behaviourist that week.
If rehoming IS the right call: speed matters
Once you have done the assessment and rehoming is the right path, timing becomes important. Different scenarios call for different speeds and routes.
Baby arriving in 4+ weeks: ideal timeline
This is the best-case window. Submit a thoughtful, detailed listing now at /rehome/submit and use the next 2 to 6 weeks to vet adopters carefully. You have time to do home visits, check references, and pick the right family rather than the first family. Aim to place the dog at least 2 weeks before your due date so the new home is stable before the baby arrives. Most well-prepared listings find a placement within this window.
Baby arriving in less than 2 weeks: emergency timeline
Tight, but workable. Submit a listing immediately. Simultaneously, contact 2 or 3 foster-based rescues in your area and ask if they have capacity for an emergency intake; foster rescues sometimes have a foster home available within days when shelter waitlists are 4 to 8 weeks out. Boarding at a reputable facility (not a kennel; a small home-based boarder or daycare-with-boarding) is a third option for 2 to 4 weeks while you finalize a permanent placement. Do not feel pressure to make the permanent decision in 48 hours. A short-term safe placement plus a thoughtful permanent placement two weeks later is a much better outcome than a rushed handover to the first applicant.
Already home with baby + immediate safety risk
Full separation immediately: baby gates, exercise pens, separate rooms. The dog and the baby are not in shared space until the dog is in a new home. Then prioritize fast: a temporary foster rescue, boarding at a reputable facility, or a relative who can take the dog for 30 to 60 days. In parallel, list the dog at /rehome/submit. Contact major rescues in your region (Calgary Humane Society and AARCS in Calgary, Edmonton Humane Society and Zoe's Animal Rescue in Edmonton, BC SPCA in Vancouver) and explain the situation; many rescues prioritize bite-risk or baby-safety surrenders ahead of standard waitlists. Be honest about why; this is not a situation where you can hide the reason and it is exactly the kind of case the rescue exists to triage.
The 4 rehoming routes for new-baby families
Once you have decided rehoming is right, you have four practical paths. Here is the honest comparison.
Option A. Surrender to a humane society or major rescue
The traditional path. Calgary Humane Society, AARCS, Edmonton Humane Society, Vancouver BC SPCA, and most major regional rescues accept owner surrenders. Surrender fees are typically $50 to $200 depending on the rescue and circumstances.
Pros for new-baby cases. Established rescues are skilled at placing dogs into "no-children" homes when that is the right match. They handle adopter screening, behavioural assessment, and the difficult conversations with adopters about what the dog can and cannot live with. You hand over and step back.
Cons. Surrender waitlists are typically 4 to 12 weeks. If your baby is already home or arriving very soon, this timing may not work without an emergency-intake exception. Your dog also experiences kennel stress during the rescue's assessment period. You lose input on the new home.
Option B. Foster-based breed or behavioural rescue
Smaller foster rescues (no shelter facility, dogs live in volunteer homes) often have shorter timelines than humane societies. Breed-specific rescues (e.g. Pawsitive Match, ARF Alberta, Zoe's Animal Rescue) and behaviour-focused rescues may have foster space available within days when the timing aligns. These rescues are also unusually good at matching kid-incompatible dogs to no-children homes because their adopter pool tends to skew older and more experienced.
Pros. Faster intake when capacity is available. Dog stays in a home environment (a foster home), not a kennel. Strong adopter pool for behaviourally complex dogs.
Cons. Limited intake capacity at any given time. Some foster rescues have stricter screening and may decline cases with significant bite history. Worth calling multiple rescues; the answer changes week to week.
Option C. Kijiji or general Facebook (we recommend avoiding)
Posting "rehoming due to new baby" on Kijiji or general Facebook attracts a specific kind of applicant, and it is not the kind of applicant a kid-incompatible dog needs. Free-to-good-home and low-fee posts are the highest-risk listings on these platforms in every Canadian province. Documented patterns from the Alberta SPCA and provincial SPCAs across Canada include dog flippers, bait-dog scouts for fighting rings, and people who acquire dogs with no intent to keep them. A kid-incompatible dog placed into one of these situations is the worst possible outcome of a difficult decision. We strongly recommend avoiding this route.
Option D. LocalPetFinder direct rehoming (recommended)
The path we built for exactly this situation: faster than a shelter surrender, safer than Kijiji, and you stay in control of who adopts. Free, approved within 24 to 48 hours, magic-link-verified contact form so only real adopters reach you. Your dog stays in your home until the right family is found, which means no kennel stress during a transition period that is already stressful enough.
For new-baby cases specifically, being upfront in the listing about why ("rehoming due to new baby, dog needs adults-only or older-kids household") filters for the right adopter pool quickly. Empty-nesters, child-free adults, retirees, and experienced dog people without kids are a surprisingly large pool of applicants in every Canadian city. The honesty serves your dog far better than a vague listing that ends in a failed placement and a second rehoming six months later.
Ready to list your dog?
Free, vetted, approved within 24 to 48 hours. Your dog stays in your home until the right family is found. Magic-link verified contact form so you only hear from real adopters. Being honest in the listing about the new-baby situation filters for the right home quickly.
Start Your Free Listing →How to write the listing honestly
The biggest mistake new-baby rehomers make is vagueness. "Looking for a more active home" when the real reason is "growled at the baby" sets up a failed placement. The right adopter does not want to be lied to, and you do not want to feel guilty if the dog ends up in a household with toddlers because you were not specific enough. Honesty serves everyone, including the dog.
What to say
- Why you are rehoming. "We had a new baby and our dog is not safe around small children" is a complete sentence. You do not have to over-explain. If there is a specific incident (growl, snap, bite), say so honestly.
- The ideal household. "Adults-only home, no children under 13" or "experienced dog person without kids, no plans for kids in the near future." Be specific. This is the most important filter in the entire listing.
- What the dog IS good with. Other dogs? Cats? Quiet adults? Long walks? Brushing? Cuddling on the couch? A kid-incompatible dog is not a bad dog; they are a dog who needs a specific kind of home. Highlight what makes them lovable for the right adopter.
- The behavioural specifics. If there is a bite history, level (Dunbar scale if you know it) and trigger. If there is resource-guarding, what gets guarded. If there is predatory chase, what triggers it. The adopter needs this information to evaluate fit honestly.
- What you have done so far. Family Paws? Trainer consultation? Behaviourist assessment? Adopters trust listings where the owner has clearly tried before deciding to rehome.
- The dog's daily routine, medical history, food, quirks, and what they love. Same as any other rehoming listing.
The no-children household adopter pool
One thing that surprises most new-baby rehomers: the adopter pool for "no kids" dogs is much larger than you would expect. People in this pool include:
- Adults living alone or with a partner, with no plans for children.
- Empty-nesters whose kids have moved out, often experienced dog people looking for a calm companion.
- Retirees with time, patience, and a quiet home environment that suits kid-incompatible dogs well.
- Couples who have chosen to be child-free.
- Households where the children are grown teens or young adults. Many kid-incompatible dogs do fine with respectful older children who understand dog body language.
- Experienced dog people who specifically seek out behaviourally complex dogs because they have the skills, time, and lifestyle to give them what they need.
This pool is not small, and they are often the most thoughtful, prepared adopters. A clear listing finds them.
Anti-scam warnings (especially important here)
A "rehoming because of new baby" listing attracts more bad-faith inquiries than typical rehoming listings. Some scammers specifically target new parents because they assume the owner is stressed, sleep-deprived, and likely to skip due diligence. Watch for these red flags.
Red flags from adopters
- "I'll take any dog you have." Real adopters are picky. They want a specific breed, size, energy level, and household fit. Generic interest is a flipper or worse.
- Pressure to skip the meet-and-greet or home visit. "Can you just drop the dog off?" No. Anyone refusing a home visit is hiding their living situation.
- Offering to pay much more than your asking fee. Classic flipper move. They plan to resell at a higher price. Do not be flattered into skipping vetting.
- Refusing to share their full name, address, vet, or references. Real adopters have nothing to hide.
- "I want a dog for guarding" or "for protection." Reputable adopters want family pets. Guard-dog requests often plan to leave the dog outside year-round, untrained, and isolated.
- Targeting bully breeds or large mixes specifically. Vet extra carefully. Ask for references and confirm them by phone.
- Wants to take the dog immediately, no waiting period, cash only. Always insist on a written agreement and a paper-trail payment.
Adopter verification matters more than ever in a new-baby rehoming because you are likely doing this on limited sleep and limited time. Take the extra hour to confirm a vet reference by phone. Take the extra evening to do a home visit. The right adopter will appreciate the diligence and want to do the same on their end.
If you witness or suspect cruelty
During this process, if you encounter a situation that feels wrong (a previous adopter coming back to "trade" a dog, a home visit that reveals neglect, an adopter who seems to have multiple dogs in poor condition), report it. The Alberta SPCA cruelty reporting line and the equivalent in other provinces (BC SPCA, OSPCA in Ontario, etc.) have enforcement authority. Reporting is anonymous and matters even if you decide not to adopt your dog out to that person.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if I should rehome my dog or work with a trainer first?
The dividing line is safety, not stress. If your dog has any bite history at any level, has shown resource-guarding around babies or children, has a predatory chase response to crawling babies, or has severe noise sensitivity that triggers reactivity to crying, the safer call is to rehome before the baby arrives or to place the dog in foster while you work through it. If your dog is nervous, curious, jealous-seeming, or just stressed, those are training and management problems that a certified force-free trainer can usually solve in 4 to 8 weeks. The difference between "this dog needs help" and "this dog is dangerous around my baby" is real and worth getting an experienced eye on. A $200 to $400 consultation with a credentialed behaviourist will tell you which category you are in.
My dog growled at the baby. Do I have to rehome?
Growling is communication, not a sentence. Growling means the dog is uncomfortable and asking for distance. Suppressing growling is dangerous (a dog who has been punished for growling may bite without warning next time). What matters is context and frequency: a single growl when a tired toddler grabbed an ear, after which the dog moved away, is different from repeated growling during quiet moments when the baby is nearby. Step one is full separation (baby gates, x-pens) until you have a behaviourist assessment. Step two is a credentialed force-free trainer who specializes in dog-child dynamics. If after a professional assessment the dog is showing repeated, low-threshold reactivity to the baby, rehoming to a no-children household is often the safer outcome for everyone.
My dog seems jealous of the baby. Is that a rehoming reason?
Jealousy in dogs is usually attention-seeking, not aggression, and it is very manageable. Common signs: pushing between you and the baby, demanding behaviours when you are nursing or holding the baby, attention-seeking nudges, sulking. None of these are dangerous on their own. The fix is structured: predictable feeding and walks, dedicated alone-time with the dog every day, treats and positive associations during baby-care moments, and a trainer or behaviourist to coach the household. Most jealousy patterns resolve in 4 to 12 weeks with consistent management. This is not a rehoming reason on its own.
I am pregnant and worried. Should I rehome before the baby comes?
Most dogs adjust fine to a new baby with proper preparation. The Family Paws Parent Education program (familypaws.com) was built specifically to prep dogs and households before a baby arrives, and it is the gold standard. Their licensed educators run online and in-person workshops covering desensitization to baby sounds, equipment introductions, safe-zone setup, and dog-baby management. Most pregnant owners who complete this program do not need to rehome. Where rehoming during pregnancy IS appropriate: a documented bite history, resource-guarding around children, predatory drive toward small moving creatures, or a household member with extreme allergies. In those cases, rehoming before the baby arrives is the kinder choice for the dog (less stress, more time to find the right home) and the safer choice for the baby.
My dog is scared of crying. Will they adjust?
Most dogs habituate to baby crying within 2 to 6 weeks of consistent exposure. Habituation works in advance: play recordings of newborn crying at low volume during your pregnancy (start at barely audible, build slowly over weeks), pair the sound with treats and calm activity, and gradually increase volume to real-world levels. By the time the baby arrives, the sound is neutral. If your dog still has a panic response after 6 to 8 weeks of structured desensitization, a force-free trainer can help with a more clinical protocol (sometimes with vet support for anxiety medication during the transition). Severe sound phobia that does not respond to professional intervention is one of the legitimate reasons to consider rehoming.
My dog is afraid of the stroller. Same question.
Stroller fear is one of the easiest things to fix and almost never a rehoming issue. Set up the stroller in your living room weeks before the baby arrives. Feed the dog meals near it. Push it around the house empty, treat the dog for calm proximity. Then take the empty stroller on short neighbourhood walks with the dog on leash. By the time you push it with a real baby inside, the stroller is just furniture. Two to four weeks of slow, treat-paired exposure is usually enough.
What kind of adopter wants a dog who is not safe around kids?
A surprisingly large pool. Adults without children, empty nesters whose kids have moved out, retirees, child-free couples by choice, and households where children are grown teens or adults are all common adopter profiles. Some rescues maintain dedicated "no-children household" applicant lists for exactly this scenario. Being honest in the listing ("kid-incompatible, needs adults-only home") filters for the right adopter quickly. Many of these adopters are experienced dog people who specifically want a dog without the demands of also managing kids. Honesty serves your dog far better than a vague listing that ends in a second rehoming after a failed placement.
My partner wants the dog gone, I do not. What now?
This is a household conversation before it is a rehoming decision. Some questions to work through together: have we tried a credentialed behaviourist consultation (not internet advice, not a friend's opinion, a paid professional opinion)? Have we set up proper separation and management infrastructure? Is the concern based on a specific incident or general anxiety? Are extended family or friends able to provide respite care for a few weeks to give us breathing room? If the answer is "we have tried everything and one partner cannot live with the dog in the home with the baby," then rehoming is the right call, and dragging it out only increases stress for everyone, including the dog. The dog is better off in a stable home with one family who fully wants them than a tense home where they are barely tolerated.
How do I talk to extended family about rehoming?
Lead with the safety frame, not the apology. "We made the decision that is safest for the baby and best for the dog" is a complete sentence. You do not have to defend the decision in detail. Parents, in-laws, and friends may have opinions, but the only opinions that matter are yours, your partner's, and the assessment of a credentialed behaviourist. If you want to share more, "we worked with a force-free trainer and a behaviourist, and the professional advice was that this dog needs a different home" is a clean, honest answer. The people who matter will trust your judgment.
My dog has a bite history. Will rescues take them?
Some will, some will not, and you should be upfront. Bite history is legally required to disclose under most provincial animal welfare conventions, and any reputable rescue will ask. A single bite incident with a clear trigger and no broken skin (Level 1 or 2 on the Dunbar bite scale) is workable; many rescues will accept and rehome to experienced no-children adopters. A bite with broken skin or multiple incidents is much harder. Be honest with the rescue or in your direct-rehoming listing about exactly what happened. A behaviourist's written assessment helps the rescue or new adopter make an informed decision. Hiding bite history is illegal under most provincial dangerous-dog regulations and exposes you to liability if the dog bites in the new home.
How fast can I rehome? My baby is due in 6 weeks.
Six weeks is workable. Most direct-rehoming placements happen within 2 to 6 weeks of a good listing going live. Submit your listing at /rehome/submit today, not next week. Use the time well: meet 2 or 3 interested adopters before committing, do home visits, check references. Six weeks gives you breathing room to pick the right family rather than the first family. If the baby is due in less than 2 weeks, see the next question.
My baby is here already and there is a safety issue. What now?
Full separation immediately. Baby gates, x-pens, separate rooms. The dog is not loose in shared space with the baby until you have a behaviourist assessment. Then choose the fastest safe path: a foster rescue that can take the dog into a temporary home while you find a permanent placement, boarding at a reputable Calgary or Edmonton facility for 2 to 4 weeks while you rehome, or, if available, a relative who can take the dog for 30 to 60 days. Surrendering to a shelter is also an option but most surrender waitlists are 4 to 12 weeks. In a genuine emergency, contact Calgary Humane Society or Edmonton Humane Society directly and ask about emergency intake. Do not delay because you feel guilty. The baby's safety is non-negotiable, and a stressed dog in a tense home is not living a good life either.
Final word
A baby and a dog can be one of the best combinations in a family's life. They can also be a combination that genuinely does not work for a specific dog and a specific household. Telling those two situations apart is not always easy in the middle of pregnancy or the sleep-deprived first months. That is why this guide exists.
If after reading this, working with Family Paws, and consulting a credentialed force-free trainer, rehoming is still the right call: you are not failing your dog. You are doing the work to find them a stable home with a family better positioned to give them what they need. The dogs whose stories end well are the ones whose owners did exactly what you are doing now. Pause. Read. Plan. Choose carefully.
When you are ready, the listing form is at /rehome/submit. Free, vetted, approved within 24 to 48 hours. Your dog stays home with you while we help find the right family.